Two Years On

Today, I ventured into the heart of Tunis to take in the commemoration of the revolution's two-year anniversary. There was a palpable sense of pride in the country and what it had accomplished, with many Tunisians draped in flags and bearing all manner of red and white regalia. The atmosphere was largely relaxed, with the cafes along Bourguiba Avenue, Tunis's main drag, filled to the brim and the crowd slowly meandering down the street while chants and songs periodically emerged from the crowd. Even with my rudimentary knowledge of Arabic, however, it was quite clear that few people here were blindly celebrating the new-found freedom of their state. Many of the signs emphasized dissatisfaction felt toward the performance of the government dominated by the Islamist Ennahda party, with expressions of the considerable progress yet to be made in becoming a true democracy. This secular opposition, however, was quite diverse, complete with a large contingent of more radical folks described to me as "leftists." The most fascinating scene was near the large tower at the eastern end of the avenue, where a line of police officers separated the secular UGTT trade union presence from a Salafi rally, where clerics addressed a crowd of more conservative Muslims. Walking from one end of the city's main drag to the other, the diversity and complexity of Tunisian society was apparent, but while these groups may have conflicting ideologies, today they seem to have peacefully coexisted. It was a day for embracing a common commemoration of what the country has gone through, even if very different perspectives toward the last two years compete for attention.

The security presence was strong, and did not create the impression that the state's instruments of power were now in happy communion with the masses. Ever since I arrived, several ominous military vehicles have been stationed on a razor wire-encircled median in the street between the Cathedral and the French Embassy, which also happens to be completed surrounded by razor wire, as is the Ministry of Interior building several blocks away. Tunisians are still jumpy when it comes to the police, as I learned while walking back toward my hotel through a side street. People started running past me, and soon most everyone on the street was doing the same, some with a look of real distress on their faces. The two Tunisians I was with brushed it off, however, saying that just happens nowadays, with even the slightest bit of yelling between youth and the police spurring such reactions.

I was lucky to meet up with one of my Tunisian contacts who had helped me plan my stay here, as well as with an English teacher friend of his. These two offered heaping quantities of their country's legendary hospitality and friendliness, complete with a delicious meal of classic Tunisian dishes. While it is clear that they greatly value the progress made in the past two years, there are many concerns harbored by secular educated Tunisians. The Ennadha party has not adequately engaged in dialogue with the opposition and politics is largely adversarial, economic growth remains stunted relative to what they believe can be attained, entrepreneurism and government efforts to promote business remain very underdeveloped, and the diversion of Tunisian staple goods, especially milk, to higher-priced Libya creates scarcity and inflation in Tunisia, which unlike its immediate neighbors is not blessed with oil money. It is clear that the process begun two years ago is not over, and promises to move slowly, with stops and starts. There is a strong belief, however, that civil society, which worked underground to unseat Ben Ali, will continue to drive Tunisia forward.

For the first time, I was able to walk through the streets without being targeted by struggling entrepreneurs looking to secure some of my dinars in a climate where tourism is far lower than its historic norm. "Today," I was told, "is not about money."